Last night, TY told me about his surfer friend, H, who was recently circled by two great white sharks at Sunset Beach. On a short board, he raised his arms and legs out of the water and waited for a rideable wave.
The lifeguards' whistles shrilled as they frantically waved swimmers and surfers out of the water. People ran out of the ocean screaming. But H, far out in the water, calmly scanned the horizon for swells while the fins circled him.
Finally, a wave rolled up and H surfed to shore.
"Holy crap. That's crazy! I'd never go surfing again," I said.
"Are you kidding me? He's probably out there right now. A shark scare wouldn't stop him," TY said.
I began scribbling on a piece of paper.
"What's the question?" TY asked.
"What will you continue to do that someone else thinks is crazy?" I responded.
1 year ago